by Captain Carol Dunlop

There are so many reasons to cruise the idyllic waters of Fiji. It is one of the warmest, friendliest nations on earth and caters to cruisers looking for adventure, timeout experiences with locals and very remote cruising.

There are five distinct cruising
 areas as described throughout 
this guide, which provide very
diverse cruising locations to suit every traveler of the high seas. This is not always the case in some of the other South Pacific island destinations where good anchorages can be sparse. In the outer islands, off the beaten tourist track, there are many deserted beaches, good anchorages, and opportunities to really experience local customs and the culture of Fiji.

Kioa village beach

Fiji is certainly worth making the decision to pass through the Panama Canal and into the South Pacific for. Now that Super yachts can charter in Tahiti and now Fiji, many ship Owners and Captains may be tempted to commit to a longer cruise in this magical region, which compared to the Mediterranean and the Caribbean, must be refreshingly unpopulated with unspoiled coastlines and often empty anchorages.

There are white sand beaches, small boutique resorts, snorkeling and sunshine in the western group close to the international airport in Nadi. It’s pretty extraordinary that you can leave a very western style precinct such as Port Denarau Marina, and sail to close by rural outer islands, where there is no running water or electricity and where culture and tradition still run deep.

Cruising in Fiji waters is remote and stunningly beautiful, and over the past 35 years has given me the opportunity to experience many once-in-a-lifetime moments.”

Provisioning and other supplies for Super yachts (and their often quite particular clients) are easily imported from New Zealand and Australia, however it is worth noting that many in-country suppliers are able to meet such demands.

Cruising in Fiji waters is remote and stunningly beautiful, and over the past 35 years it has given me the opportunity to experience many once- in-a-lifetime moments. However, its isolation and untouched beauty also means that it is one of the more navigationally exacting cruising areas in the South Pacific. Sailing with good light and obtaining local knowledge is advantageous. Having a well stocked ship and a good spare parts inventory is also worth the effort.

So, as the South Pacific has so much to offer the adventurous cruiser, we look forward to seeing you soon!

Captain Carol Dunlop

Cape Washington Kadavu

Select from the below series of articles is about cruising the 5 quite distinct and diverse areas of Fiji:

• Yasawa & Mamanuca Islands
• Beqa & Kadavu
• Lomaiviti Group comprising The Vatu-i-ra channel, Makogai, Namena, Wakaya, Ovalau, Gau and including the Northern side of Viti Levu as part of the voyage
• Taveuni, Vanua Levu and The Ringgold’s
• Northern and Southern Lau. The Eastern Group of Islands.

The Yasawas and Mamanucas are the closest cruising ground to the international airport.

by Carol Dunlop

A departure from Port Denarau (which is only 20 minutes from Nadi International Airport) will see you at Malolo Island, the southern-most in the Yasawa/ Mamanuca chain of islands, in a couple of hours.

Yasawa and Mamanuca Islands Map

This chain of islands and coral reef is strung out over 80 nautical miles from Malolo Island to Yasawa-i-rara at the most northern tip of the Yasawas. Most of the traveling is inside the reefs with short passages between many good anchorages and fine beaches.

The climate is reliably very sunny being situated on the “dry” side of Fiji. You are likely to see a few boats but the area is still pristine with easy, safe diving and very good snorkeling.

Diving is good for novice to moderately experienced divers. It’s a great area for guests that do not feel comfortable in open water.

Blue Lagoon in Yasawas

There are a few small boutique resorts in the Mamanucas where you can hire jet skies, go parasailing; have a spa treatment and do the usual resort things.

Good anchorages can be found off Malololailai and Qalito island.

Momi Bay is a good anchorage to arrive at night on the leading lights and for an early departure.

At the southernmost island of the Yasawas – Waya Island you will find the lovely Octopus Resort. Cruise northward up the island chain to see the many other small backpacker operations and several more luxurious resorts hidden away on some of the islands.

Blue Lagoon

About midway up the chain you will find Blue Lagoon anchorage (so named as this was the location for the movie ‘Blue Lagoon’ in 1980)  and the private Turtle Island Resort. Nanuya Island Resort is right on the beach of Nanuya Lailai; closely on Tavewa Island, Fanny can organise a private lovo on the beach for you and your guests.

This is the Fijian way of cooking food on hot rocks buried in the ground. A typical lovo will include fish, pork, whole chicken, and some dalo, palusami and other root crops from the market. The resort staff weave coconut frond baskets to hold the food, which is placed on the heated rocks, covered with banana leaves and more coconut fronds, and buried for a few hours. The food comes out tender, juicy and infused with the flavour of grated coconut.

Yaqona or Kava drinking while being serenaded by harmonious Fijian singing provides a musical delight under the stars. We would take our guitars and ukuleles and of course the full bar for the guests. I guess this is the nearest thing to a night club – South Pacific island style!

Yasawas, Fiji

One can easily cruise for 7-10 days in the Yasawa/ Mamanuca area and find something of interest to suit everyone onboard; beaching, hiking, kayaking, snorkeling, diving, fishing, cultural village visits and watersports. Most villages will put on a meke (Fijian Dancing) and/or lovo for guests on very short notice.

The beaches are magnificent. Whiter and more dramatic the further north you go; Yasawa Island being the most spectacular with miles of white sand, nobody there except for a few villages and the very upmarket Yasawa Lodge Resort tucked away, almost invisible amongst the palms.

Sawa-i-lau Lagoon

At the southern end of Yasawa Island are the famous Sawa-i-Lau caves which are well worth a visit. You can hire a guide from the village to show you the entrance to the underwater caves. Take torches, masks and snorkels! The lagoon at Sawa-i-Lau is just great for exploring with kayaks, and the snorkeling is very good near the caves.

Many anchorages can be found both on the east and west side of the island chain. The best in bad weather being the Blue Lagoon anchorage at Matacawalevu; other anchorages are Sawa-i-Lau caves, Vawa island and North and South Naviti and Waya island both east and west depending on wind direction.

Kadavu and Beqa Map

Kadavu

The North Astrolabe lagoon offers close proximity to some excellent diving.

The water here is consistently 1 degree lower than the rest of Fiji owing to its location and topography and you will likely see large pelagic species, schooling barracudas, turtles, manta rays, and stunning corals.

There is about 25 nm of open water from NE Beqa to Usbourne passage before you enter into the lee of the Kadavu reefs and the entrance into the North Astrolabe lagoon.

A sevusevu should be presented to the chiefly village of Dravuni before any diving/cruising in the area of the North Astrolabe lagoon.

There are some nice beaches in the Astrolabe Lagoon mainly at Dravuni, Yaukuve Levu (home of the new Yaukuve Island Resort) and Namara (deserted island).

There are a few dive resorts further south on the island of Ono and mainland Kadavu. People are friendly and welcoming in the villages. All of these places are off the traditional tourist route.

There are great waterfalls on the southern side of Kadavu island in Kadavu village, (Captains need to take tenders in to the village at half tide rising).

Kadavu anchorage

Close to Kadavu village is the eco-resort Matava  who can spin you to the incredible Manta dive on the south coast near Galoa.

The anchorage at Galoa is really is a great place to run to in boisterous conditions.

The Namalata reefs to the north of Vunisea are great Sawaleke to explore with SCUBA but as always, a local guide Gau will guarantee you hit the best spot at the best time to get the best experience. See Dive Kadavu as in my experience they are the best on the northern Namalata reef side.

At the most western end of the island, we have Cape Washington, which is another location for fantastic diving and surfing.

This area, which is Moala Naro about 80nm south of Port Denarau, is a fabulous cruise, particularly for those who are interested in varied diving. Alternatively, a passage between Beqa (Frigate passage) and Cape Washington is Totoya about 40nm.

The village at Cape Washington is one of the best at putting on a Meke (traditional Fijian dance). Your sevusevu needs to be made to the village of Nabukalevuira.

There is also a great surf resort  ‘Naigiagia’ on the island just off Cape Washington. The owners and staff are very friendly and will point Namuka-i-lau you in the direction of the waves. There is a small fee payable for this to help support village projects.

There is the additional option to fly into Vunisea, the main the north-western side of mainland Kadavu where you can find a small market, Government stations and a medical centre.

Beqa Firewalking (Photo Bruce Southwick)

Beqa Island

Beqa

Beqa is home to the famous Beqa Fire Walkers, members of the Sawau tribe, who can walk bare foot across blazing hot rocks!

A historical encounter with a spirit God by one of their great ancestors saw the exchange of the captured Gods freedom for power over fire.

Ask any Beqa island native to regale you with their story and they will be happy to share the history of their people with you.

Malumu Bay

One of the best anchorages on the NE side of Beqa is Malumu Bay.

Here you will find Lalati Resort & Spa. The sapphire waters of the bay offer a safe harbour for yachts and super yachts alike. Here you can grab a nice cold beer from the beach bar, eat gourmet style island cuisine in the chiefly–style open air bure,or sign up for a spa treatment… or two.

You can also go for a guided dive with a member of the resorts dive team.

The Royal Davui is another boutique resort on a small island in the Beqa lagoon and is worth a visit for a snorkel and a wreck dive. They will also serve meals and put on a meke. Prior permission to visit the island resort is essential.

Vaga Bay on the west side of Beqa is great for a more protected night time anchorage.

Rivers Fii Tour

The surf is extremely good at Frigate Passage and fishing in the Beqa channel is renowned for hooking yellow fin tuna, wahoo and walu.

From Beqa, access to Pacific Harbour is easy with anchorage outside The Pearl South Pacific Resort, and also in the mouth of the Qaranaqio River for smaller cruising yachts.

In the heart of Pacific Harbour, you will find the Arts Village and Cultural Centre. Here you can witness the re-enactment of the way our ancestors once lived. The tour ends with traditional Fijian song and dance, and a breathtaking fire walking performance by the descendants of the Sawau tribe.

Arts Village Pac Harbour

Lomaiviti Map

For serious divers this is the ultimate area for world class diving. It’s highly recommended to carry a dive guide as this is “experienced divers only” – See some guideines here…

On the island of Ovalau you will find the Old Capital Levuka, It’s like being in a time warp.

The Royal Hotel reminds me of something out of Somerset Maugham and a visit to the local watering hole, The Ovalau Club, has to be part of life’s rich experiences.

The leading lights,particularly the lower one on the main church spire, are the best in Fiji and are rarely out!

Wakaya

Wakaya Island is strictly a private island and there are no facilities available unless checked in as a guest.

Homestead Bay is now a marine protected area gazetted by government. There is strictly no access to the beaches up to the high water mark and Wakaya property after that. Use of the bay as an anchorage without a survey certificate is not permitted without prior consent from Wakaya Management.

Makogai

Makogai island has a very good anchorage in the bay which is currently used as the site of a Department of Fisheries clam hatchery and turtle head-start program. The island is state owned (although a sevusevu is still required) and steeped in history, as it was previously a large leprosarium serving the region.

Lomaiviti, Fiji by Chris McLellan

The last patients were taken off the island back in 1969 when a cure for the disease was finally discovered. Prior to this, hundreds of lepers lived on the island and were cared for by a group of nuns and doctors. Over the course of the years that the island was used as a leprosarium, over 1,000 patients died and were buried there.

Aside from the overgrown graveyard, all that remains now is  the ancient infrastructure; a generator circa 1906 still used for three hours each evening after  it is  dark, a few stone structures including that of an outdoor cinema and the stone staircase leading o the women’s dorm.

Lomaiviti, Fiji by Chris McLellan

A walk around the island can lead you through the remains of segregated dormitories, up past the old post office, to the old staff quarters that now house government workers and their families. After 1969, the island was briefly used as a sheep  quarantine station.

Later, some Australians came to start a giant clam farm. The idea was to cultivate the giant clams in the bay near the village and then transfer (sell) them to resorts or dive spots to help repopulate the reefs with this otherwise geographically extinct species.  

Snorkelling around the site of the old jetty, you will be able to see some old discarded hospital beds from the days of the leprosarium, along with protective cages for the juvenile clams. While you observe these you will also notice the health of the near shore reef and large schools of fish meandering by.

Annual humpback whale surveys around Makogai and Levuka, record sightings of migrating humpack whales, so do keep your eyes open and be sure to complete the sightings form.

Lomaiviti, Fiji by Chris McLellan

Vatu-i-Ra Channel

There are so many spectacular dive sites in and around the channel, that in order to enjoy some of the finest, it would have to be from the comfort of a yacht and with an experienced local guide.

Famous sites such as E6, Cathedral and Mt Mutiny to name but a few.

Gau Island

Good anchorages and some more world class dive sites such as Jims Alley, and the Nigali Passage for schooling grey reef sharks.

Inside the Lagoon the dives are tide dependant and divers will need a guide with knowledge of the ideal times to dive. On the outer wall however, times to dive are flexible.

Namenalala – Namena Marine Reserve

Namena Marine Reserve

Rising from the depths of the Koro Sea, on the fringe of Bligh Waters, lies the mile-long island of Namenalala, surrounded by one of Fiji’s most pristine diving and snorkeling reef ecosystems known as the Namena Marine Reserve.

Namenalala Island is privately owned and as such a small fee applies for landing. The island itself is home to a red-footed booby nesting colony. You can also see fruit bats, lesser frigates, long-tail tropic birds, and multi-hued land birds that will entertain you with their songs.

Hawksbill turtles come ashore to nest here, and critically endangered leatherback turtles and whale sharks have been sighted within the area.

There is fair anchorage on the Northern side of the island in average trade wind conditions. Moorings have been installed (see here) and the iQoliqoli owners request you use them whenever possible.

The people of the Kubulau District – had the wisdom to protect the beautiful reefs of Namena for their future generations. As such, they established a fee for those visiting the reserve to meet community and management needs. The fee is essential to the reserve’s success, covering management costs such as patrolling, fuel, and mooring maintenance.

A portion of the fee also funds community development projects such as the Kubulau Education Fund, which provides the children of Kubulau with scholarships for tertiary education.

by Carol Dunlop

Koro

Koro Island is part of the Lomaiviti archipelago. The Koro Sea is named after this volcanic island, which has a chain of basaltic cinder cones extending from north to south along its crest. With a land area of 108.9 square kilometers, it is the sixth largest island of Fiji. Northern Air  flies weekly to Koro, and there are four ferry connections each week to both Suva and Savusavu. Charter flights can also be arranged to the airport situated on the eastern coast.

On the northwestern tip of the island, you will find the Dere Bay Resort and the Koro Beach Resort. The beautiful residential development ‘Koro Seaview Estates’ surrounds Dere Bay, if you decide you cannot tear yourself away from the area. A deep but good anchorage can be found in Dere Bay, and also to the North of the island in southerly winds.

The people of Nacamaki Village believe that turtles represent their sacred ancestral God, and descendents of one particular family perform a special ritual to summon turtles to the ocean surface – a sight that has to be seen, to be believed!

Here you need a dive guide, as the correct tide and current is essential to see the ‘Rainbow Reef’ and the white coral flowers open on the sheer ‘Great White Wall’.

Taveuni Map

Good anchorage areas close to the Rainbow Reef dive sites are Viani and Vatudamu bays.

Buca bay, which is on mainland Vanua Levu, also offers a very good anchorage in bad weather with good holding ground and is also a great spot for a seaplane to land when transporting guests to and from your vessel.

While in the area, you should spend some time exploring.

Be sure to include a visit to the two  islands in Fiji that are populated by displaced South Sea Islanders, namely Rabi and Kioa.

Kioa village beach

Kioa is an outlier to Vanua Levu. Situated opposite Buca Bay, it is a freehold island purchased by settlers from Tuvalu, who arrived between 1947 and 1983.

Their skill in fishing is legendary as their artisans and handcrafts. To the south of Kioa is ‘Sau Eco Resort’ run by locals Nigel and Carol Douglas; the anchorage is nice and Nigel is the best guide for diving this area.

He has piloted and led dives on many visiting super-yachts. However, please do get permission to land.

Rabi children

On to Rabi (Rambi), where the inhabitants are displaced Banabans from Ocean Island, in Micronesia.

Phosphate mining devastated Ocean Island, so the British bought Rabi for resettlement.

Though Fiji citizens since 1945, they still speak in their native tongue – Gilbertese, and their lifestyle preserves age-old traditions.

Their dancing is very unlike Fijian dancing; more Polynesian in style and very stimulating!

Rabi island dancers

The islands of Matagi (Matangi) and Qamea (Gowmear) located to the east of Taveuni also boast some excellent anchorages.

Matagi is owned by Noel and Flo Douglas who have hosted lovo’s and meke’s for numerous Superyachts over the years.

This is a charming boutique resort with lovely beaches and great diving.

A very good anchorage can be found to the south of the island and for smaller yachts in Horseshoe Bay. This is a private island so you do need to ask permission to land.

by Carol Dunlop

Laucala island, to the east of Matagi, is home to a private and exclusive 7-star resort which is often frequented by the rich and famous.

The Ringgold Islands are to the North of Matagi Island; the pass is deep and wide into the area.

Go to Yanuca (Yanutha) village to present your sevusevu.

Be sure to visit the Cikobia (Thikombia) Crater, and the deserted Raranitingga island is also worth a stop.

Rigggold’s Islands, Fiji

Fulaga pass, Southern Lau

Over the years, because of restrictive permit requirements, it has been very hard for yachts to visit the Lau Group. There is absolutely no tourism and it is very much open-ocean sailing between the islands, some of the passages between the the islands can be quite bumpy. The bonus however, is that isolated reefs and islands are well-defined, so that night passages between islands are safe for competent navigators. Indeed, one commonly reaches through the night across Force 4-5 trade winds, hearing and even smelling unseen islands to windward, making some superb sailing.

Both Northern and Southern Lau are very remote areas away from any tourist track. There is absolutely no shopping, stores, or resorts!

by Carol Dunlop

However there is excellent fishing, great diving, rich cultural experiences and beautiful scenery. The Fijians of this region follow a subsistence lifestyle that is not greatly changed from that of their ancestors.

Unlike on the large islands there are few people of other races, and only rarely has land been sold out of indigenous ownership. It is very important that visitors respect traditions that underlie daily  life, as careless or  disrespectful behavior can lead to animosity, and damage to the fragile ecosystem. Please keep this in mind while cruising here.

Ogea ladies Southern lau

The island life is very simple, and the people are poor in material terms but rich in others. Most villages have a store, but there is little for sale. Fresh fruit and vegetables are hard to find, and villagers are not used to the idea of selling these things that are normally shared freely with friends and family.

Premix petrol (and occasionally diesel) is sometimes available in the larger villages. While most islands have a telephone at the post office, internet is rarely available. Vanua Balavu and Lakeba have the only airports in Lau, and both may have have once-weekly flights. Cargo ships, with passengers, visit some islands roughly monthly (in theory), but this is unreliable. Due to this infrequency, the local stores are often in low supply, so do not rely on buying any of your supplies here.

Cruisers may be able to help in this respect by carrying extra supplies of sugar, rice and flour (which may be used for trades; or in sevusevu if supplies of yaqona have run out – see below). One may also be asked to carry produce (MANDALA carried 50 wooden kava bowls, and three sacks of smoked sea slug to Suva from Fulaga) or people from their islands to the main islands.

Please observe the sevusevu protocol; you must bring the required yaqona with you as it cannot be purchased easily once in Lau. This means estimating how many villages you will visit during your entire stay! In these remote islands, gifts of basic stores, schoolbooks, pens, pencils, paper, and both school and medical supplies are greatly valued.

Be aware that Officials can be, with reason, suspicious of yachts anchoring in remote places. Accounts of caches of drugs being found on deserted beaches in Lau, deposited by one boat for another to collect (likely en route to Australia or New Zealand) fuels such suspicions.

While in Lau, you must also pay particular attention to observing the iQoliqoli protocols (see below) as they are of fundamental importance and followed more strictly in this area, that retains such a strong link to tradition and culture.

iQoliqoli

While the state ultimately retains ownership of the ocean and her resources, the people of Fiji have been given tenure and the right to fish for subsistence from allocated areas of coral reef referred to as ‘iQoliqoli’.

All coral reef areas in Fiji are part of an iQoliqoli. Deeper water passages between the islands of Fiji are commonly outside of iQoliqoli areas.

If your yacht is berthed within one of the iQoliqoli jurisdictions (apart from a marina), you will need to present your sevusevu to the village and ask for permission to anchor there.

Permission to cruise Lau waters is included in your government issued Permit and there should be no additional payments made to any village for anchoring once a sevusevu has been presented. Of course they retain the right not to accept, but respecting sevusevu protocols and perhaps making donations of useful school and/or medical supplies (which much more beneficial to the community and country as a whole) this should not happen.

Komo viillage Southern Lau

Weather

The region is dominated by the SE trade winds, which are usually from Force 3 – and mostly 5. Quite frequently these bring showers.

When fronts pass through heavy showers and rain are more frequent, making navigation in lagoons a little tricky. June July and August can be boisterous sailing.

How to get there.

Before stopping in Lau, you will first need to report to a Port of Entry. While there is talk of a Port being set up in Lau, this is unlikely in the foreseeable future. Fijian immigration and customs officials take their roles very seriously, and any boat found to have stopped in Lau before clearing into Fiji is likely to be in serious (and expensive) trouble. Please refer to the Entering Fiji section i this guide that details all the information you will require.

If Lau is your destination and you are arriving into Fiji from the East perhaps consider entering in Savusavu. From here it is only a 40nm hike to windward into the lee of Taveuni and thus much closer to Northern Lau.

If you have guests on board that would prefer not to make the windward passage, or your ship is constrained by a time factor, there are daily flights from Nadi to Taveuni or Savusavu, or special charters flights can be arranged with passenger helicopter, seaplanes and other operators (see Directory). There are small grass airstrips at Lomaloma, on the island of Vanua Balavu, and on Lakeba as mentioned before, but these are not always accessible if the weather is difficult.

From Nadi it’s a 240NM mile passage back to Vanuabalavu or from Suva 180NM against the prevailing winds to get to Northern Lau – however, you will not regret the effort once you arrive!

The best way to get to Lau is to wait, happily, for the few days of west- or north-quadrant winds that comes every week or two, when a front moves through the region, and these will give you a free ride from Suva to Matuku or Fulanga; or from Taveuni to Vanua Balavu (Adrian’s yacht, MANDALA averaged near 8 knots on this!).

Islands with good anchorages

Vanua Balavu

Largest island group in Lau, has 5 wide passes into a lagoon 15 miles by 15 miles. With many islands inside the lagoon, and many excellent anchorages, for example, great calm anchorages can be found in the fjord like harbor at Nabavatu and in the stunning Bay of Islands. The official hurricane anchorage is Malaca on the west coast level with the village Moalevu which is on the East Coast.

There are many cruising options here, and one could be happy for a month or more.

Sailing across the prevailing winds south of Vanua Balavu, anchorages can be found near the main village of Tubou on the Western side of Lakeba.

Copra drying Nabavatu Vanuabalavu

Lakeba

Population is about 2000, in 7 villages spread around the shore, with a road running right around. The island has a very basic shops and a clinic. There is a basic guest-house, but no other facilities for visitors or tourists.

This roughly circular volcanic island, about 6 miles across, is the political centre of Lau, indeed Lakeba, and Bau (on Viti Levu), were the two poles of power in traditional Fiji, and the tombs of several of the great leaders of Fiji are revered on the main village of Tubou’s waterfront.

Tubou

The channel through the reef off Tubou is very narrow (20 m wide), is only roughly marked and very challenging. Leading about half a mile inside the reef, the channel leads to a long jetty, and past this to a narrow anchoring basin about 6m deep on sand.

With care there could be room for two small cruising yachts, but only using great skill, good anchors and co-operation. The anchorage is calm, but difficult. It is recommended to take a dinghy ride in before entering with the yacht, and to enter only at slack water as currents are strong.

Not really recommended for any sizable super yacht; the pass is considered very dangerous at times.

The ship can lie off Tubou while the tender can be used to pick up and drop off guests via the dock and then to the small airport on the island (4nm NW of Tubou). A local carrier can be hired to carry the guests but this is a hard seat truck – no taxis here! Local cargo ships at anchor outside the passage in calm weather.

Another anchorage to the North of Tubou on the western side of Lakeba is called Wainiyaba (18 12S 178 50W). This affords an anchorage in winds between SSE and NNE close to the reef in about 60ft. There is a small boat landing here, through an opening in the reef by the shore, close to the anchorage.

The leads here are a couple of beacons with a white triangle top mark, point up, on the shore and the course in is about 120T on the alignment of the beacons.

Pay to anchor

An issue you may encounter while cruising the Lau Group is that of being asked to pay to anchor by iQoliqoli owners. Due to relatively recent changes in the application process for cruising permits (previously, yachtsman would be required to apply separately to the Lau Provincial Council in order to cruise the Group) there is some residual lack of clarity which can create confusion.

Please be aware this is an issue that our Government is aware of, and currently reviewing, and that we will provide the updated information as soon as it is released on our news pages

Fulaga. School supplies to village meeting

Oneata

To the South East of Lakaba is the island of Oneata which has several reasonable passes in good light. There is a nice village on the southern side and lovely anchorages on the Northern side.

Komo Island

Has a deep wide pass and a delightful village on the southern side of the island. The anchorage is normally mid island on the Northern side and guests can walk through to the village to the south; but with care a yacht can pass west about the island and anchor on the SW side of the island and islet.

Yagasa

Further south the Yagasa cluster affords some remote anchorages away from any village. There may be a few fishermen around but that’s about all. Like many islands in Lau, the land is sharp, raised coral rock, and access to the land is difficult: the anchorage is welcoming, but the land is not! The middle island in the cluster, Navutu-i-Loma, has a small, pretty beach on the Northern side.

Fulaga (Vulaga)

South again to Fulaga, this island consists of an oval rim of junglecovered hills of raised coral, around a lagoon about 6 miles by 5 miles where the small sailing canoes (Waka) are still seen today.

There is one 50m-wide pass into the lagoon, straight but challenging – and dangerous in bad weather or strong tides. Inside the lagoon are countless mushroom islets and some larger islands dotted with rare palms, countless anchorages over white sand, usually <10m deep. At least one anchorage could be considered hurricane shelter for a small boat.

The pass is difficult, but can accommodate at least a 35m vessel with a draft of 3m. This cannot be attempted with a strong current running and the usual time to enter this pass is on slack water, which is usually at half tide.

Population is about 400 over three villages. One village (Naivindamu) lies on the W shore inside the lagoon, with good anchorage about 200m offshore allowing ready contact with the welcoming villagers. The other two villages lie close together on the southern edge, with two tracks leading from the lagoon to them. The headvillage, Monacake, where one should present the sevusevu, has the school and clinic, and is about half an hour’s easy walk over the hills. No airport, and very infrequent ships make this a very isolated world, rarely visited by yachts but well worth the trip.

Ogea

This island has a deep and wide pass and the diving is truly awesome. The village is to the south of Ogea Levu and needs to be approached at high tide to make sevusevu.

A run with the wind into the Yasyasa Moala Group overnight is good with the usual prevailing easterly quadrant winds. The group is comprised of three islands – Moala, Totoya and Matuku.

Moala

The island is of volcanic origin; the summit of ‘Delai Moala’ is 468m high in the NW part. A barrier reef encircles the island, line up Double Hill on a bearing of 080T which leads you through the pass into the lagoon.

NE Point bearing 167T leads to an open roadstead (Herald Roadstead) or approximately 0.7nm off the Northern part of the island on this alignment turn onto the leads bearing 189T.

Naioi, situated at the NE end is the principal village of the island and your sevusevu needs to be carried out here.

Anchorage can be found to the west of Observatory rocks. Another anchorage (which is close to a possible surf spot!) is via Davet i Cakova. There are several other anchorages around the island but these are best in normal prevailing easterlies

There is an airstrip on the island.

Totoya

The island is about 5 miles wide, being the rim of a volcano with the crater open to the south, and a barrier reef around most coasts. The crater is accessible through a clear pass on the west side, and by a passage inside the reef. Anchorage in the crater is far from ideal, and very deep (20m+). Anchorage on the N coast is possible, open but calm in S winds.

The usual anchorage is inside the pass on the western side in Herald sound.

Matuku

This is a beautiful, verdant, high volcanic island, with its crater open to the west through a wide, clear pass. There is an excellent sheltered anchorage, 10 – 15m over mud inside the crater off the village of Lomati. Other deeper, less sheltered anchorages are in the channel inside the pass, to the north of the main channel (17m over sand), or south of the main channel, amongst coral (6m over sand). There are more marginal anchorages inside some narrow passes on other coasts.

Seven villages are spread around the coasts, with total population about 800. No airport, only occasional shipping and yachts (mostly surf and dive charters). The main village is Yaroi, on the NW coast, with a clinic and school. Anchorage is possible off another delightful village, Makadru, south of the pass.

With Captain Carol Dunlop  and Captain Adrian Faulkner of MV MANDALA

Lau Group Map