1. One to two tropical cyclones (TCs) are likely to pass through Fiji’s Exclusive Economic Zone during the 2024-25 TC season.
2. Of these, one TC is likely to reach severe Category (Category 3-5).
3. There is equal risk of TCs affecting any part of the Fiji Group.
4. While the peak TC activities are usually from January to February, TCs can form at any time during the season. Out of season TCs cannot be ruled out.
5. It does not take a direct hit or a severe TC to cause considerable damage or life-threatening weather. Tropical disturbances or depressions that do not attain TC intensity can and have previously caused strong winds/gusts, widespread heavy rainfall, landslides and flooding.
6. All communities should remain alert and prepared throughout the TC season and take heed of all advisories whenever it is issued.

Figure 1: Total number of TCs forecasted for the Fiji region.

Figure 2. Number of severe TCs forecasted for the Fiji region.

Additional Information

1. To predict the outlook for the 2024-25 TC season, analogue seasons were identified, that is, seasons in the past (from 1980) with similar background climate. These seasons were 1983-84, 2000-01, 2005-06, 2008-09, 2016-17 and 2017-18.
2. On average, around two TCs affect Fiji every season. Thus, near normal tropical cyclone activity is likely for the Fiji region this season.
3. The TC season in the southwest Pacific extend from November to April, with the peak TC activities normally experienced from January to March. However, TCs have occasionally occurred in this region during October and May, and rarely in September and June. Out of season TCs cannot be ruled out this season.
4. In the past, tropical depressions also had significant impact on Fiji, especially heavy rainfall and severe flooding. Thus, it is important to take heed of all-weather advisories seriously.

Seasonal summary so far – January 2025

Regional Specialized Meteorological Centre Nadi – Tropical Cyclone Centre – Tropical Cyclone Seasonal Outlook – 2024

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/2024%E2%80%9325_South_Pacific_cyclone_season

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tropical_cyclone_intensity_scales#Australia_and_Fiji

Currently these are Australia, Canada, France, Germany, Japan, Qatar, Republic of Korea, Singapore, Spain, Switzerland, United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland, United Arab Emirates, United States of America, New Zealand, Cook Islands, Kiribati, Marshall Islands, Federated States of Micronesia, Nauru, New Caledonia, Palau, Samoa, Solomon Islands, French Polynesia, Tonga, Tuvalu and Vanuatu.

Once you arrive, you can holiday safely and enjoy the best of Fiji knowing that when sticking to Care Fiji Committed businesses, everyone you interact with will be fully vaccinated.   

Planning your trip

Planning your holiday during this time can be overwhelming so we’ve compiled everything you need to know about travelling to Fiji right here.  

Stay informed with the latest Fiji travel updates for a hassle-free holiday.

TRAVEL REQUIREMENTS

Fiji is open but before you book the next flight out, make sure you understand your country’s latest restrictions on travelling to and from Fiji.  These are fluid and may include mandatory tests and quarantine requirements upon your return. 

ENTERING FIJI BY AIR

Flight travel to Fiji will happen gradually at first – with quarantine-free travel for fully-vaccinated tourists from Travel Partner countries that have similar high vaccination rates. 

For now, if you live in Australia, Canada, France, Germany, Japan, Qatar, Republic of Korea, Singapore, Spain, Switzerland, United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland, United Arab Emirates, United States of America, New Zealand, Cook Islands, Kiribati, Marshall Islands, Federated States of Micronesia, Nauru, New Caledonia, Palau, Samoa, Solomon Islands, French Polynesia, Tonga, Tuvalu and Vanuatu there’s a beach bure here waiting for you!

ACCOMMODATION & ACTIVITY BOOKINGS

What’s a holiday without peace of mind? Resorts, hotels and activity operators are Care Fiji Committed (CFC) and open to fully vaccinated guests. This means that they’ve adopted WHO-approved health and safety practices throughout their business. 

Look for the CFC logo on our accommodation and activity listings to make your booking.

TRAVEL INSURANCE

Travellers entering Fiji must have medical travel insurance, with international coverage that covers COVID-19 before travelling. If you or a family member tests positive for COVID-19 during your stay, appropriate insurance will be needed to cover costs related to room relocation and booking extensions, rebooking airline tickets and any associated medical costs. 

Pre-departure checklist

Along with holiday essentials like swimsuits and sunnies, don’t forget to tick off the following before you travel to Fiji.

VACCINATIONS

Travel should be safe and stress-free so for now Fiji is only open to fully vaccinated travellers. Currently Fiji recognises Astra-Zeneca, Pfizer, Moderna and Johnson & Johnson vaccines

NEGATIVE RT-PCR TEST

It is essential that everyone over 12 years old gets a negative RT PCR Test done 72 hours before you board your flight to Fiji as this will be checked.  Defer your trip if you feel unwell – we’ll still be here when you’re feeling much better.  

CONFIRMED BOOKING WITH A CARE FIJI COMMITTED ACCOMMODATION IN FIJI

All travellers who visit Fiji will need to stay at a Care Fiji Committed accommodation.  Make sure you have documented proof of a confirmed 3-night CFC booking before your flight. 

DOWNLOAD THE careFIJI APP

You’ll need the careFIJI contact tracing app to access businesses as soon as you land in Fiji. 

Make sure its downloaded and Bluetooth activated wherever you’re travelling in our islands. (Click here to download)

During your visit

Enjoy exploring our islands, but whenever you’re in public please practice these simple steps to keep yourself and others safe. GET TESTED

Travel for tourists on holiday in Fiji is quarantine free but you will need to take a mandatory Rapid COVID-19 test at a CFC-certified resort 48 hours after your arrival in our islands.  Please factor this into your overall trip cost. 

With this 48hr timeframe, you can still enjoy using the facilities at your resort, transiting to  your CFC-certified resort on another island or booking a daytrip tour as long as you’ve   engaged CFC approved and certified tourism operators throughout.  

BE COVID-SAFE

• Wear a mask in public places (eg restaurants, tour buses, shops) 
• Social distance where possible (2m) 
• Wash or sanitise your hands frequently 
• Activate your careFIJI contact tracing app to check into businesses. 

AVOID LOW-VACCINATION ZONES

Most people in Fiji are vaccinated but there are still some Fijians (youths, elderly and sickly) who remain unvaccinated and vulnerable. Whenever possible please avoid ‘low vaccination zones.  

These areas will change as vaccination rates consistently increase across Fiji. A map of these areas will be released closer to the Fiji’s reopening in December. 

Returning home

With your holiday over, it’ll be time to say goodbye to Fiji and hello to the reality of heading home.  Make sure you’re familiar with your country’s requirements for returning home. 

NEGATIVE COVID-19 TESTS

Selected clinics in Nadi and Suva will be able to issue you with a fast and convenient  negative RT-PCR test for your return while your hotel can assist you with taking Rapid tests. 

Depending on your country’s return requirements, you may need to be tested for COVID-19 before you fly home.  A rapid COVID-19 test costs approximately $35 FJD but some countries require an RT-PCR test which costs approximately $350 FJD.  Currently testing can be done at the locations below: – 

You can get a test done at the following locations: 

• Dr Zen’s Clinics (various locations) 
• Nasese Private Hospital (Suva) (679) 331-4450 

A process for in-house testing at hotel properties is being investigated and will be updated here once it is confirmed. 

How do I get a PCR test in Fiji?

Be aware that to return home, your country may require you to meet certain testing requirements. In Fiji, you can discuss your return flight date with your hotel who will help you arrange this process.  They will also confirm a date and time for your swab. Please ensure you do not miss that date and time, as our hotels will have worked out the time needed to get your result back, and for you to meet your flight in time.

Check Latest Updates

These requirements and rules are changing constantly, so check the website frequently before you travel

https://www.fiji.travel/covid-19/travelling-to-fiji
 

But Jak wasn’t into tragedy. He was grinning, tapping the last sentence, listing the crew of the yacht: it ended “… and two young American women.”“Maybe they’ll be looking for another yacht to sail on?” Now that was of real interest to two young guys!

Yacht Hadar

Yacht HADAR drifts downwind

I’d just sailed into Suva two months earlier, from Nelson, New Zealand, on my first cruising voyage. My 36’ yacht HADAR was built of steel, and so was I … or at least I was feeling so: at 29, I was strong, confident and had an irrepressible urge for adventure!

But I was alone: my crew had gone home. I needed help to spot the coral I’d be sailing through, but I also needed company. Two young women sounded just right!

The Team Forms

First Jak Ayres had soon joined me, answering my notice in the Suva Yacht Club. Jak came from Hawaii and we had much in common: both of us were high school teachers, surfers, young, fit, and in our late 20’s. Light and easy-going, his face was framed with short, curly hair, and alive with the wrinkling eyes of easy smiles.

The Royal Suva Yacht Club was a perfect sailors’ base, and it has changed little over the four decades since this story unfolded. The odd lick of paint, but not too many: it is a club to be used and enjoyed, not a flash chapel of image like many other clubs that cling to the “Royal” label. The Suva club’s neighbourhood would not suit the flash crowd, either: just over the road is the prison: watch- towers, barred cells, razor wire and all! Indeed one player in this story would soon spend some time “over the road”, where “bar” has a very different meaning!

A few days later I came back to this haven from the bustling town, to find Jak bubbling with excitement, desperate to tell me, “They came, those chicks. They’re cool, man!”

While I’d been out the two girls off the wrecked yacht had come to the yacht club. They’d seen my “crew wanted” notice, and soon found Jak. Rather exceeding his rights as a newly- signed crew, he’d taken them out to HADAR, where they’d poked around through the cabins with childish delight. They knew how to summarise someone else remotely: what does he eat/read/ listen to? They’d got the wrong boat twice before through neglecting this vital step: they were more careful this time!

Jak with his Walu catch

Jak bubbled over like a shaken beer, filling me in with details about the visit: mostly what they looked like, ages, body shapes, hair colour – all the things he thought relevant to their suitability as crew for HADAR’s proposed cruise. And later in the day, around sunset time, I met them and formed my own opinions. I tried, vainly, to be more objective, but reached the same conclusions: they would be great to have aboard!

Susie and Jana were close friends. Susie Rose was below average height, with lots of curves in all the right places, long dark hair and a darkish – Mediterranean? – complexion. Her eyes sparkled with mischief, flashing a language of happiness no-one could ignore. Jana Palm was taller, thinner, red-haired, freckled and fair-skinned, with at least as much vibrancy as her friend. Both in their early twenties, they’d been friends for several years: they had that spontaneous ease of intimacy that had them often speaking as one – with two voices, finishing each other’s sentences like sisters. It took me half a beer to realise that I wanted them aboard.

Third Time Lucky?

Of course I’d had to ask them about their previous sailing experience,

They found their first skipper in Pango Pango. They’d quickly realised he was a dreamer, but at sea he became a drunkard, too. They were soon standing on the shores of another South Seas port, wondering “what next?”

“Yacht BUNGEE”, anchored off Aggie Grey’s Hotel, soon answered that question. This 43’ fibreglass cutter was calling for crew for the trip to Fiji. She was owned by an Australian woman and skippered by Fred, her American boyfriend. He was a GI, ex-Vietnam: the girls hoped this would be a disciplined ship! No sensible questions were asked about the skills of the skipper or the preparedness of the boat: just “please take us”! Now that was a bad mistake, as they were soon to find out.

Bungee sailed out of Apia with five aboard, full of fun and optimism towards Wallis Island – a small French territory about 300 miles west. Land was soon out of sight on the second day and to find this small island required navigation. The skipper took the beautiful Plath sextant out of its case, posed himself on the stern, adjusted the mirrors, peered at the numbers…and then slammed the sextant back into its case, muttering darkly about nothing working properly “on this shit boat”. They sailed through the night into another day, but the dawn brought more than daylight: it dawned on Susie and her friend that their skipper didn’t know how to navigate. They were lost! His growing anger spread over the whole boat.

Fred gave up trying to find Wallis and changed course towards Suva, about 450 miles south west. But while it was unforgivable getting lost trying to find Wallis Island, it was safe enough: there was nothing else to hit out there. But sailing towards Suva from the north east without very good navigation is like Russian roulette. Across most of the sea are strings of coral reefs that are invisible from more than three miles off by day, or a hundred yards off by night. Fred hadn’t a clue of his true position. He kept the yacht sailing on towards this line of foaming danger.

It was on his watch, at about 0300 – he was asleep, with the yacht on self-steering – that they hit the reef. The horror of those first, dark hours of shaking and grinding, each new wave lurching the boat and drenching her crew. They clung to the cockpit, feebly joking, hoping – and waiting for daylight. As dawn came the fear level subsided a little, but the danger they were in was clearer. The yacht had washed onto the windward side of a reef, and was pressed hard on the coral by wind and wave. There was no way the boat could be saved. It was already starting to take water through the crushed fibre- glass hull.

Some small good news, though, came with dawn: there were three small islets just a mile or two downwind. Fred and his partner – a yacht-owner the day before, now a wreck-owner – took off in the dinghy, laden with salvaged gear and stores, towards these islands. “She’s yours if you can get her off”, Fred snarled as they left: his moods swung from grim to violent. Their only refuge should the hull break apart was the life-raft, inflated and tied alongside.

Unloading a copra schooner at Suva.

It was near sunset that Fred, now “Crazy Fred” to his young crew, came back in the dinghy to collect more gear, and to take them off the wreck. A base had been set up above a beach on the central island, and with a fire, some food and plenty of coconuts in the palms above, they were all safe for the moment. Safe from the sea, but maybe not from the skipper.

Amongst the gear were several weapons, for Fred was a special kind of crazy: he was gun-crazy. I was later to find ammunition of several types washing around the wreck, like on the floor of a flooded armoury. I could easily believe the girls when they told how he would blaze away at coconuts in the palms and at other times, order his young crew to do his bidding, stressing his orders with a pistol in his hand.

The girls were elated the next day when the ship hove into view, inside the lagoon, to take them to Suva. The girls were welcomed into the family of one of the ship’s crew. The wreck’s owner was found a hotel. The “skipper” (the wrecker) was taken to a different “hotel”: as we talked over our cold beers he was just over the road in the Suva Prison, charged with illegally importing firearms, which he’d hidden in gear he brought off the island!

To my astonishment Susie and Jana were keen to join me on Hadar. I just couldn’t understand how they could do it again, and asked how and why? “Third time lucky!” they laughed, glowing with simple enthusiasm for the adventures of young life!

Making a Plan

Even before Jak came along I’d decided to sail to Fiji’s Lau Group. I’d found the Yasawas dull. Lau would be different. Dozens of very different islands are scattered across the sea, mostly with very deep, clear seas between them. Poring over my British Admiralty Pilot Book and my charts, I could see that at least half of the Lau islands had good anchorages where we could be safe and happy, no matter which wind blew. As any sailor knows, the two most important things for his happiness are a safe anchorage, and a warm wahine: both were now looking possible on this Lau cruise!

The girls were keen to go back to the scene of their near-demise, and I was keen to see it too. Jak was on for anything, and this voyage fitted perfectly with his passion for marine biology. Cruising the Lau required a special permit: it had long had a special status as a pole of political power. A consequence of that was that tourism was not encouraged, and visits were strictly controlled. With a recent science degree, I soon concocted a plan for “research” in Lau that would benefit Fiji: the permit was granted.

The other challenge with sailing to the Lau was that getting there normally required sailing straight into the trade winds. But I’d noticed that this became easier every week or two when fronts came through: the winds tended to back around the compass over two days. Our plan was to wait for a front, and then sail to southern Lau (Matuku and Fulanga). Later we’d ride on the trade winds, north to Vanua Mbalavu (Vanua Balavu – evocatively called on the early charts “The Exploring Islands”). We’d base there to explore the nearby reefs where wrecked Bungee lay, and then come back to Suva across the Koro Sea.

To Matuku

Suva has the best fresh market in the South Pacific. It is such a happy, colourful place, a joy to the eyes as much as to the heart of a cook. Needing food for a month, and food that would last without fridge or freezer, takes some planning. And some experimentation: what lasts best? How do you best store things? There would be very little available to buy where we were going.

Suva also does the best overcast sky I know: vast, roiling black clouds queue over the mountains, then roll down over jagged peaks, pushing sheets of grey aside and dumping rain on the glistening brown flesh below. Most people dart from shelter to shelter, giggling, laughing and shouting in the warm rain.

This weather often signals that the winds are changing. One dawn soon after the girls joined Hadar brought that signal. With a rising northerly we soon had full sail set for Matuku, 100 miles south east. Four bright young souls aboard a fine cruising boat, a skipper with just enough skills to keep them safe, and an adventure ahead – it does not get better than this!

The black skies cling tightly to the main island, like the wiry hair on a Fijian’s head. Out at sea it clears and by nightfall it was all stars, with a young moon setting. Rushing on through the night, across seas clear of dangers, DR (dead-reckoning – navigation by compass, log and the clock) was the technique of choice.

Jana poling a bamboo raft, Matuku.

Hadar, like most cruisers of that time, had no electronics. GPS didn’t yet exist. For those who’ve known navigation with sextant or by accurate DR, there is real satisfaction in practicing those skills. At that time autopilots were very rare on cruising boats, and Hadar, like most cruisers of that era, relied on self-steering, powered by wind and water.

By dawn our chosen island was clear ahead, still 15 miles away. With the rising sun the valleys, forests, and clearings all began to fill out the picture of paradise unknown. Soon stark white beaches, contrasted against dark green forests, underlined the picture. It is pure magic watching a new land unfold with the day.

But there, as the chart promised, was a clear and wide passage, the dark-blue of deep water guiding us through the reefs of the western shore. A wide pass leads right on into the heart of this mountainous island – into the crater, in fact, of what is a great volcano. Matuku’s harbour is wonderful both for its shelter and for its breathtaking beauty. We sailed on in, eyes full of wonder.

We anchored off the village of Lomati, in the heart of the crater. Muddy shores, mangroves giving way to coconuts and then jungle, with small garden clearings on the slopes rising up to steep basalt cliffs on the skyline. The village was a small affair, evident more by gentle smoke and domestic noises (children, dogs, roosters, axes) than by any structures.

The waterfront was lined with children singing hymns and chanting, “Come to the billage! Come to the billage!”. We did as we were bidden.

The houses were small, simple and often dilapidated, set along each side of a wide grass street that leads up from the landing towards the hills. There were perhaps twenty houses in total, and a church/hall. The population was below 100. The chief’s house was no different from its neighbours. We were warmly welcomed in, shaking hands, giving our names and origins and our gift of kava.

We stayed three nights in that cradle of beauty. The nights were so dark. Not a light below the black mountain’s sawtooth ridge, a blaze of stars above. Deep silence reigned till dawn, then came a flurry of the noises of awakening life, calming slowly into the quiet, routine sounds of daily life. Aboard there are routines, too. There’s bread to bake, and meals to prepare; there’s cleaning; sometimes a repair to do, or something to make. Outside, there’s the people to greet and meet, the land to explore on foot, the shores by dinghy – or on the bamboo raft Jana borrowed from the village and poled around the mangroves.

Susie and I were getting on very well, though she was always saying “Lighten up!” After her two previous skippers I felt she might appreciate me being serious!

The girls were great company. Aboard they were often busy in the galley, playing with ideas that turned into delicious meals. Ashore, they were soon involved with village life, with children playing, and with the women, learning village skills – like grating coconut to produce coconut cream (lolo), or weaving mats of pandanus leaves. Friends they brought from the shore were welcomed aboard, where they gazed at us like exhibits from another planet – the world of palangis (valagis – visitors). And then, one day, as sailors must, we left Matuku and sailed on.

Fulaga

We left one afternoon, with the trade winds in the south – on the beam – for the hundred miles across to the next island. Another charmed passage through the night, another silhouette in the sunrise, though this one is nowhere near so dramatic. Fulanga (Vulaga, or Fulaga) is a doughnut shaped rim of raised coral 260 feet high on the western side, lower on the northern and eastern sides. And that’s where the pass is – our entry into what was going to be one of the loveliest places I’ve ever seen on the sea.

The pass is only 60 yards wide, a deep channel running from the ocean, straight through the reef into the lagoon. Up the mast at the spreaders I could see the channel clearly, but there were strong pressure waves – rapids! – showing the tide running out, probably at about three knots. It was not the best time to enter, but I’d breasted six-knot tidal flows before. I knew the boat could handle this – but could I? I lined up the boat, ruled my nerves into submission, and fired Hadar into the slot at full power. Slowly, slowly, we were making headway. The big danger in this situation is that being thrown off the straight course can very quickly send the boat onto the coral at full speed: it’s only 30 yards from the centre line to the side – about 10 seconds at six knots. You must be totally attentive on the helm, fighting every eddy, making corrections every moment to stay on track.

As we came through the worst pressure waves, and into the lagoon I could relax and begin to enjoy this astonishing, vast lagoon of azure water, sprinkled with scores of small islands – some mere rocks, others larger and jungle-covered.

Sailing proa flitting across the lagoon like graceful butterflies, Fulanga.

It was all so wonderful, but far too much to take in at once. I shouted, “let’s do that again!” Throwing the wheel over, we shot out through the pass again, with the current this time, down the rapid at nine knots, out to sea, laughing with exhilaration we came in again, a little more relaxed this time, better able to watch the magic scene unfold.

The lagoon is about 10 miles wide, and five across, though it is so cluttered with islands and islets that the full size is not clear at first. All the land, islets and rocks are made of old, upraised coral which is eroded by the sea into very sharp, hard surfaces that are dangerous to walk over. Most islands have the rock undercut by the sea, and the smaller ones are like mushrooms sprouting from the sea. Some would have only a few square yards of vegetation atop: bushes, stunted trees, even coconut palms, clinging to their hard, dry surface.

The lagoon has one village, Naivindamu, on its western shore (inside the rim), while there are two more villages invisible on the outside of the rim, facing the ocean on the southern shore.

Five days passed easily. We spent our days walking the beaches, snorkeling the shallows and watching the last of the sailing proa flitting across the lagoon like graceful butterflies. These are small cousins of the traditional Pacific drua – dug-out canoes built up with planks sewn on with sennit (coconut fibre) and balanced with an outrigger that always stays to windward. The sail is a “crab- claw” form, with two spars meeting at the deck near the bow. When they tack the spars must be taken to the other end, the rudder is also swapped: the bow becomes the stern, the stern the bow, and off they go on the other tack. Here they were trolling the lagoon, or moving across to work gardens on smaller islands. Sails were largely made of old synthetic sacking or plastic roofing material, a patchwork of dull white, orange and vivid blue.

Ashore we met a man collecting mud crabs among the mangroves. He gave us some – large, fearsome beasts whose claws thankfully he’d tied with vines – to take for our dinner. The next day he came back and we had to admit we’d had trouble eating them: it is so hard getting the flesh out of all the crevices, and it all seemed too much hard work. He laughed gently, as a father would at a child who cannot master a normal skill, “no problem, wife can do”. He came back later, calling from the beach, bearing a bowl of beautifully prepared coconut crab.

A proa with pandanus sails, Fulanga.

For the record – so we could say we’d stayed at an uninhabited island – we left Fulanga and sailed north 15 miles to the Yangasa Cluster, a group of four jungle-covered, rocky islets on an intimate lagoon. This place was as pure as the world can be, floating at the edge of the world on crystal azure water over coral sands. It was certainly worth the effort!

A couple of days later, we were off on another night sail amongst islands and reefs, 100 miles northwards to Vanua Mbalavu (Vanua Balavu). This passage needed more serious navigation. It was just another wonderful challenge and about noon the next day I brought the yacht safely in through Nggilanngila Pass, and down to the Bay of Islands.

Vanua Balavu & Bungee’s Grave

The Yacht Bungee was wrecked on a reef just seven miles north of the main entrance to Vanua Mbalavu. We were all keen to get out to see what was left of her. We motored gingerly across the lagoon to the windward shore where the wreck lay, clearly visible. I anchored nearby.

The yacht was lying on her starboard side, with much of the hull visible at low tide. We dinghied across, with masks, snorkels and fins. The debris- field spread a hundred yards down-current towards the lagoon. Knickers, clothes, cassette tapes, shoes, bags. Books were pulp. Jars and cans without labels. A bottle of wine. This was the private stuff of people, rudely exposed by sudden surprise. It brought strange emotions for Susie and Jana.

Crazy Fred’s ammunition, of several calibers, was washing around the hull. The mast, still standing, was tilted to a crazy angle. Some of the rigging wires were loose, showing it would soon fall. There were countless sharp edges to watch out for. I’d brought a basic tool kit, and salvaged a winch that was later to be part of my next yacht, MANDALA.

The girls cooked a celebration dinner that night aboard Hadar, anchored just off the Kimbombo Islet that had been their home for three nights. Some jars of pickles and the white wine off the wreck featured with great ceremony. Later, they wrote a very poetic note, briefly describing the history of the bottle, adding their names and addresses, and poked the note into the bottle. We sealed the cork with wax and posted the bottle in the sea. Over a year later a letter arrived at Jana’s USA home from someone north of New Guinea who’d found the bottle on his home island. That bottle found life amongst the reefs a lot safer than Bungee did.

We spent another week in Vanua Mbalavu, a vast and wonderful cruising destination in itself. This being soon after the British period, all navigational marks were in good condition, marking the myriad reefs along the paths around the island. We played and danced along the shores and reefs, a tight crew, bonded by all the good things that open minds, souls and bodies can do together as they explore a world of such beauty, yet kept alert by the ever- present danger that’s just one mistake away.

Across the Koro Sea to Suva

Now a month out of touch with fresh stores, our food was getting dull. Fish, onions and rice still taste much the same, no matter what you call it. We’d not seen a shop since Suva and only three yachts (not that they had any more than we did). We decided this chapter was over. It was time to find the markets – and Suva has the best.

The Koro Sea is a lovely place to sail. The sea is thousands of feet deep, with winds any fool can sail on and tall islands that only an idiot like Fred could hit. For the first 100 miles we flew the spinnaker on a very light easterly. Passing one island, a booby landed on the pulpit, only to be frequently buried by the collapsing spinnaker as the wind eased. Sorry for it, I gently reached out and scratched its neck, the bird writhing with pleasure like a pet chicken. I picked it up gingerly – they have serious beaks these birds of the gannet family – and brought it back to the cockpit where the others could stroke it. It spurned morsels of my latest bread, and my aging dried fish, clearly showing its distaste with a long, white squirt. Later, as we passed another island, it grew restless, then flew away – a nautical hitchhiker! The next morning, with two fresh walu aboard – one for us, one to trade – we anchored off a village on the next island to come up, and went ashore to bargain our fish for their vegetables. With little language but very clear intentions there was a lot of laughter from both sides as we mimed our hunger and our needs. We came away with a good basket of eggplants, taro, pawpaws and bananas in exchange for that superb fish they’d find hard to catch from dugout canoes.

And the next day, HADAR was anchored again off the Royal Suva Yacht Club. Jak couldn’t stop grinning. Susie and Jana had found a sailor who was safe to sail with and each got the bonus of a good man to love; and Jak and I had both found these lovely women to share adventures with.

The same team sailed the yacht back to New Zealand in November 1976. Jak and Jana stayed together long after they left the boat and Susie and I lived very happily together in Nelson for the next year until her visa ran out. To my eternal shame and sorrow I lacked the courage to ask her to marry me, and our paths diverged. Now, 38 years later, I am still in touch with both Jana (living in Sydney) and Susie (in California).

It was this cruise that confirmed me as a cruising sailor, the major warp woven with many and varied wefts into the fabric of my wonderful life. Of all the cruises I made over the next 35 years there was no other that got the recipe quite so right: take the right mix of young, perhaps naïve, spirits, flavour with a good dose of optimism, lots of tolerance and flexibility, add a fabulous cruising territory and spice it with young love, and find a good human drama to follow. The result was delicious! Mine was a very happy crew. For them, there was a good boat and a cautious skipper learning his skills carefully – even if he never learned to “lighten up” enough for Susie!

Flanked by lush, jungle-clad hills on one side, and a fringing reef that dramatically drops into the deep blue of the Beqa Channel on the other, Pacific Harbour is home to some of Fiji’s most sought-after experiences – you know, the ones you cannot wait to call home to brag about!

Bull Sharks by Rosie Banfield

Pacific Harbour is already well known as the ‘Adventure Capital of Fiji’. It is here you can dive with big bull and tiger sharks (without a cage!), or explore wrecks and colourful soft coral reefs, zip line through the rainforest canopy, whitewater raft down rapid rivers with spectacular waterfall back drops, jet ski out to deserted islands to picnic, freedive and spearfish, drive off-road buggies, game fish, surf, ride a banana boat, ride a horse along the beach, kayak in lakes, rivers, or the ocean, go snorkeling, swimming in waterfalls, AND play on the Pearl South Pacific Hotel’s championship golf course.

Club Oceanus

Club Oceanus

A little farther up into the river mouth from the Pearl Resort Marina Development, Club Oceanus serves as a small boat marina with limited space for long term berthing. It is a popular location as a transit point. There is generally no charge for boats to tie up alongside for loading/unloading – the well stocked bar and delicious menu may even entice you to take a seat and relax for a meal. You will also find Wi-Fi and water available. Just off the main Queens Highway, delivery vehicles can enter via the resorts service access and reverse close to the dock. Super yachts frequently make use of this facility to receive deliveries direct to the awaiting tender. T: 345 0498

Sea Fiji Reefs

Sea Fiji Reefs

Brand new and launching in
early 2014 is MV Sea Venture. This Looker 350 is a
revolutionary and innovative 35ft glass bottom
boat, the hydrofoil wave piercing system allows
the vessel to literally fly along the surface of
the Beqa Lagoon at speeds of up to 40knots.
Carrying up to 30 passengers, the large 2x3m
optical spheroid viewing port constructed using
modified acrylic enables crystal clear views of
the underwater world. Even at night, the vessel retains safe operation by using the latest digital GPS, radar and sonar navigation equipment as the ultra hi-output LED’s illuminate the reef.  T: 940 4606 or 992 3606

Kila Eco-Adventure Park

Kila Eco-Adventure Park features 10 kilometers of jungle paths, waterfalls, picnic shelters and Fiji’s only linear botanic garden. In addition to this, it is an adrenalin junkies playground packed with a 12 meter high giant swing, rope courses, abseiling and 440m of scenic Zip Lining.  T: 331 7454

Terra Trek

Terra Trek

Jump behind the wheel of a two seater off-road buggy and hoon off into the lush mountain terrain of Pacific Harbour. Arriving at a beautiful waterfall and clear fresh pool, you can pause to enjoy lunch and have a dip to cool off. T: 928 2397 or 999 3675

Jungle Skirmish

Also new for 2014 is beachside jungle Laser Tag. Split into teams and run amuck in the gaming arena consisting of a base camp, bunkers, bridges & jungle trees to climb. This will bring out the kid in even the most serious of person! T: 992 6855 or 936 7622

JetSki Safari

Visit Beqa Island
on a different type of vessel! Jump on
a modern Yamaha VX700 jetski and let
your inner James Bond come out to play
as you whizz over the calm waters of the Beqa Lagoon. Stop at a secluded beach or circumnavigate the entire island – the choice is yours! T: 345 0933

Rivers Fiji

Rivers Fiji

Beyond the white sand beaches and turqoise waters of Fiji, as you head into the depths of Fiji’s tropical rain forest, you will hear squeals of delight from unsuspecting visitors to Fiji as the Rivers Fiji team guide them through exciting class II-III whitewater, explore hidden grottoes and enjoy the numerous waterfalls that spill into the remarkable canyons of the Namosi
 Valley, just outside of Pacific Harbour. With several tours on offer,
and a choice of single kayak or group raft ride, there is something
fun for every group or individual looking for something a little
different to what Fiji is traditionally recognised for. T: 345 0147

If all that is not enough, in the heart of Pacific Harbour, you will find the Arts Village for a spot of shopping where you can pick up the essentials, souvenirs and a delicious meal in some of Fiji’s top restaurants. The Tiki Pool & Bar is also located here, a novelty beach style pool complete with an 18m waterslide and a large swim up bar. The Cultural Centre is just behind the Arts Village where you can witness the reenactment of the way Fiji’s ancestors once lived. You can watch Fijian warriors in traditional dress re-enact a mock battle of an ancestral tribal war. Fire walking provides the grand finale to the show and is not to be missed!

Fruit Flies

There are two species of fruit fly only present in Rotuma but not in Fiji; namely Bactrocera kirki and Bactrocera obscura. The migration of B.kirki to Fiji poses a significant threat to the country’s fruit and vegetables and seriously could jeopardize Fiji’s fresh produce exports. Likewise, the Fijian fruit fly (B. passiflorae) is a serious pest that would cause considerable damage to Rotuma if introduced from Fiji.

Therefore, Biosecurity Authority Fiji (BAF) would like to advise people travelling to and from Rotuma that it is prohibited to bring any fruits to or from Rotuma. People found in breach of this biosecurity regulation are liable for prosecution and penalties (maximum fine of $40,000 and or 12 months imprisonment or an alternative fixed penalty of $800 for those who breach the regulation).

Taro Beetle

Rotuma is relatively free of taro beetle and other major insect pests. Any movement of taro planting materials and other taro beetle host materials from taro beetle infested areas is strictly prohibited. The Biosecurity Authority of Fiji Regulates movement of any planting materials between mainland Fiji and Rotuma, and requests that the travelling public refrains from taking planting materials of any kind from mainland Fiji to Rotuma. The travelling public should seek advice and help from any of its Biosecurity Offices situated at the various areas around mainland Fiji on the how the movement of planting materials can be facilitated before its allowed to be shipped to Rotuma.

Call Biosecurity Authority of Fiji:

Suva 3312 512 | Nadroga 628 2533 Nadi 672 5092 | Lautoka 666 5984 Ba 912 0121 | Savusavu 885 0864 Rotuma 889 1042

American Iguana Photo: Stacy Jupiter

The Biosecurity Authority of Fiji (BAF) wishes to inform travelers that there exists an invasive species to Fiji on the islands of Qamea, Matangi and Taveuni called the American Iguana (Iguana iguana). The American Iguana is not native to Fiji and was illegally introduced in the year 2000 on the island of Qamea. Since then the American Iguana has spread to Matangi and Taveuni.

BAF wishes to advise you that it is illegal to intentionally or unintentionally move any stage of the American Iguana from Qamea, Matangi and Taveuni to other parts of Fiji and vessel owners should take every precautionary measure to ensure the American Iguana’s do not hitch-hike on your vessels. It is also advisable that vessel owners inspect their vessels thoroughly before departing these islands for other islands in Fiji to ensure you do not aid in the spread of this invasive species.

There are heavy fines and penalties if anyone is found to in possession of any life stage of the American Iguana. BAF would like you to support the efforts of the Fijian Government to contain the American Iguana from spreading to other parts of Fiji by adhering to this message.

Spot the Difference:

Unlike the native Fiji iguanas, the adult American iguanas can grow almost two metres in length and weigh in at nine kilograms. They are green and may also appear bluish with black markings. Adult American iguanas have long dangerous spines along their backs and tails and long sharp claws, which they use to defend themselves. They also have long flaps of saggy skin hanging from their chin to the base of their necks, which is called a dewlap.

Photo: Stacy Jupiter

On each sides of their cheeks they have a large scale underneath their tympanums (a slightly sunken leathery covering of their eardrums). This large scale is a key identification feature for the American iguanas. The native Fijian iguanas do not have this large scale or the large dewlap. The large scale and dewlap are ways to differentiate between American and the Fiji iguanas.

You can play a huge role in preventing the spread of the American Iguana:

• Report any sightings of the American iguana to BAF;
• Do not transport American iguana to other parts of the country (this is illegal and carries heavy fines); and
• Bring in captured American iguanas to the nearest BAF office.

 

Call Biosecurity Authority of Fiji

Suva 3312 512 | Nadroga 628 2533 | Nadi 672 5092 | Lautoka 666 5984 Ba 912 0121 | Savusavu 885 0864 | Rotuma 889 1042

ALTERNATIVELY CALL 5995 FOR AMERICAN IGUANA QUERIES

Photo: Tor Johnson

Your chosen charter vessel will be licensed and registered to cruise Fiji waters, so you need only concern yourself with getting from the International Airport in Nadi to your chosen charter location. This can be as simple as chartering a seaplane or helicopter to fly you to your awaiting yacht anchored at a remote paradise island, or jumping in a taxi and enjoying a scenic car ride to the yachts marina base.

Fiji is far more remote than many other tropical island destinations. From the idyllic white sand beaches of the Yasawa and Mamanuca Group to the scenic Northern Vanua Levu and on to the lush and pristine Lomaiviti or very traditional Lau group – you can see more of Fiji in a ten day charter than most locals see in a lifetime.

The Fiji charter season begins in April and ends around the start of cyclone season (November 1st) although we have numerous yachts available for charter year- round.

The Great Sea Reef

Just off the jetty at Palmlea Farms is Fiji’s Great Sea Reef. Known locally as Cakaulevu, it is the third longest continuous barrier reef system in the world. The reef is 99.9% unexplored. A reef so remote you can name your own dive site!

The reef stretches over 200kms from the northeastern tip of Udu Point, passing Kia Island then on past Bua province at the north west edge of Vanua Levu ending some 37kms from the northern end of the Yasawas.

When a group of local marine experts examined the biological diversity of the GSR system in 2004, they found reef to have approximately 55% of the known coral reef fish in Fiji (with a predicted actual value of 80%), 74% of the known corals found in Fiji and a total of 40% of all the known marine flora and fauna in the Fiji Islands.

Leone Vokai is a PADI instructor born and raised living by the Great Sea Reef and as your master dive guide will provide you with detailed knowledge of the reef and the marine life you will see. Leone owns and operates Great Sea Reef Divers and can be contacted through Palmlea Farms Lodge.

 Labasa Town

A 30 minute journey by bus will deliver you to Labasa Town which is located on a delta formed by three rivers – the Wailevu the Qawa and the Labasa (after which the town is named).

It is the largest town on Vanua Levu and generally considered an agricultural (mainly sugarcane) town off the regular tourist track. Random fact ‐ Labasa prides itself for having the first set of traffic lights erected along main street on the entire island of Vanua Levu!

The town offers most conveniences such as a selection of five supermarkets, hardware & parts stores, Internet café’s, DVD’s, clothes, butchers, a Post Office and pharmaceuticals. There is a large local market brimming with fresh fruit and vegetables. The bus station and taxi stand is next to the market.

Nukubati Private Island

16 27’50” S | 179 01’15” E

Sailing a little farther west of Palmlea Farms along the north coastline, you can tuck in behind the northwestern side Nukubati Island and enjoy the anchorage.

Nukubati is a private all‐inclusive island resort that caters for a limited number of guests. Like Palmlea, Nukubati is eco‐sustainable, wind and sun power the buildings, rainwater is harvested and waste is recycled.

Kia Island

It is a short sail (15kms) to picturesque Kia Island, a large sand‐fringed rock island northwest of Palmlea. A visit to Kia to present your traditional sevusevu  is always a celebration, as an average of only 2 yachts per month visit this beautiful island during the season.

Kia Island

There are some 300 indigenous Fijians living on the island spread between the three villages of Ligau, Yaro and Daku. The island school is located in Ligau village and the attending school children are happy to welcome visiting yachts and are extremely appreciative of any school supplies you can spare.

Hikers can take an adventurous hike up the mountain to see the antique (Circa 19th Century) iron cannon that was set atop the mountain. There is no development on the island, the pace of life is beautifully relaxed and a subsistence lifestyle of fishing, farming, weaving and kava drinking is typical.

Having logged nearly 60,000 nautical miles, world sailors, Joe and Julie are acutely aware of a fellow sailors needs! They used their travel experiences, ingenuity and passion for sustainable eco‐tourism to build Palmlea Farms Lodge & Villas on the northern coast of Vanua Levu. Palmlea Farms, Fiji’s first eco agri‐tourism resort. Big enough for service, amenities and fine food. Small enough for peace, privacy and tranquility it is both remote and unspoiled.

Joe & Julie

Yachts can anchor in 4 meters sand in front of the resort and are welcome to use the jetty for their dinghies. The anchorage makes for an ideal base from which to explore the sunny north shore of Vanua Levu and Great Sea Reef.

Vanua Levu is second in size to Viti Levu yet it is unique in the absence of tourist infrastructure and the slow pace of life. The north shore of Vanua Levu is one of the most unexplored and undiscovered areas of Fiji. It presents lush, unspoiled tropical beauty with a spattering of traditional villages set on beaches surrounded by thriving forests and coconut plantations. The protected waters of the leeward north coast where the winds are lighter and seas flatter offers the opportunity for diving, fishing, snorkeling and surfing in season.

Enjoy a day off the boat and spend time at Palmlea. You can take a dip in the 25 meter lap pool, relish a hot shower, enjoy a delicious meal at the restaurant and to top it all off, sip on a sundowner overlooking the Great Sea Reef.

Lap Pool at Palmlea

Operating on energy harnessed from the sun, and watered by fresh mountain springs, the eco resort works in harmony with the natural environment. The duo practices up to date eco‐minded organic farming techniques. As a guest, you are welcome to unlock your inner farmer and get planting! Growing herbs, spices, fruits, and vegetables this is a great place to resupply your organic stores. The farm chickens lay eggs daily and there is also a Boer Goat Breeding program on the property. If that wasn’t enough, the farm also keeps beehives that produce deliciously flavoursome organic honey.

Palmlea Services

Fuel Services, Transportation to Labasa Town, Airport Pickups, Farm Fresh Seasonal Fruits & Vegetables, Farm Fresh Eggs. You can purchase daily Baked Bread and Pastries, Cold Drinks, Hot Meals, Homemade Sauces, Wellness Bar items. Relaxing massages are also available.

T: +679 828 2220 | E: palmleafarms@yahoo.com