Having logged nearly 60,000 nautical miles, world sailors, Joe and Julie are acutely aware of a fellow sailors needs! They used their travel experiences, ingenuity and passion for sustainable eco‐tourism to build Palmlea Farms Lodge & Villas on the northern coast of Vanua Levu. Palmlea Farms, Fiji’s first eco agri‐tourism resort. Big enough for service, amenities and fine food. Small enough for peace, privacy and tranquility it is both remote and unspoiled.

Joe & Julie

Yachts can anchor in 4 meters sand in front of the resort and are welcome to use the jetty for their dinghies. The anchorage makes for an ideal base from which to explore the sunny north shore of Vanua Levu and Great Sea Reef.

Vanua Levu is second in size to Viti Levu yet it is unique in the absence of tourist infrastructure and the slow pace of life. The north shore of Vanua Levu is one of the most unexplored and undiscovered areas of Fiji. It presents lush, unspoiled tropical beauty with a spattering of traditional villages set on beaches surrounded by thriving forests and coconut plantations. The protected waters of the leeward north coast where the winds are lighter and seas flatter offers the opportunity for diving, fishing, snorkeling and surfing in season.

Enjoy a day off the boat and spend time at Palmlea. You can take a dip in the 25 meter lap pool, relish a hot shower, enjoy a delicious meal at the restaurant and to top it all off, sip on a sundowner overlooking the Great Sea Reef.

Lap Pool at Palmlea

Operating on energy harnessed from the sun, and watered by fresh mountain springs, the eco resort works in harmony with the natural environment. The duo practices up to date eco‐minded organic farming techniques. As a guest, you are welcome to unlock your inner farmer and get planting! Growing herbs, spices, fruits, and vegetables this is a great place to resupply your organic stores. The farm chickens lay eggs daily and there is also a Boer Goat Breeding program on the property. If that wasn’t enough, the farm also keeps beehives that produce deliciously flavoursome organic honey.

Palmlea Services

Fuel Services, Transportation to Labasa Town, Airport Pickups, Farm Fresh Seasonal Fruits & Vegetables, Farm Fresh Eggs. You can purchase daily Baked Bread and Pastries, Cold Drinks, Hot Meals, Homemade Sauces, Wellness Bar items. Relaxing massages are also available.

T: +679 828 2220 | E: palmleafarms@yahoo.com

Levuka is a historical Port of Entry located on the eastern coast of the island of Ovalau. Formerly the Capital of Fiji, Levuka was listed as the country’s first World Heritage Site in June 2013!Recognised for “its low line of buildings set among coconut and mango trees along the beach front” – as a “rare” and “outstanding example of late 19th century Pacific port settlements”, the UNESCO World Heritage Committee said the combination of “development by the indigenous community” and “integration of local building traditions by a supreme naval power” [Britain] – had led to “the emergence of a unique landscape”.

The World Heritage status means that Levuka, in its present state, will remain as a snapshot, frozen in time, of a crucial part of our nations development and a permanent reminder of our unique history.

A Town of ‘Firsts’

Levuka Wharf

Levuka was founded circa 1820 by European settlers, shipwrecked sailors and traders as the first modern town in the Fiji Islands. The sheltered harbour provided the safe anchorage that peaked European interest in Levuka, which soon became an important port and trading post.

Levuka is famous for many of Fiji’s other “firsts.” It was the site of Fiji’s first bank, post office, school, private members club, hospital, town hall, and municipal government. It was the site of Fiji’s first public electricity system and Fiji’s first national newspaper, the Fiji Times, was founded in Levuka in 1869. Interestingly, the Royal Hotel (which is still in operation today) is the oldest hotel in the South Pacific!

Levuka Coastline

By 1870, the town had a population of more than 800, but by 1882 the move of our nations capital to Suva had been prompted by concerns that the 600-meter high cliffs surrounding the town gave it no room for expansion. So the town remains today, as it was then; developed only with respect to its former state – the saloons that lined the street are gone, but the quaint columned storefronts and weatherworn clapboard buildings have managed to survive the 130-something years since, and Levuka has retained its magic.

But why take our word for it? Make your way over to Levuka and see for yourself! Take a sail back into Fiji’s past and experience the unique atmosphere of heritage and culture…

Levuka Harbour

Entering at Levuka

When choosing to clear into Fiji at Levuka, be sure to make contact by radio on Channel 16 once you reach the main wharf. Bunkering, watering facilities and ships’ supplies are available. The port area includes the wharf and large sheds once used to store copra. The tracks for trams that transported the copra to and from the wharf are still visible.

All necessary border control offices are located alongside the main wharf; including the oldest Customs building in Fiji!

Rakiraki in the province of Ra is a very traditional region. Sailing along the Sunshine Coast from Lautoka to Rakiraki makes for a beautiful voyage.

There is a clearly defined route on most navigational charts and electronic charts showing the inside passage from Lautoka all the way to Nananu-i-Ra, which is a regularly travelled route by local vessels. Alternatively, you can come in the Nananu-i-Ra passage that is a well-marked channel and come around the west end of the island.

As a warning, there are many unmarked bommies in the area and so these are really daylight passages that should always be approached with caution.

The area marks the start of the Vatu-i-Ra channel and some seriously world-class diving. So good is the diving here, that the world famous Siren Fleet has chosen to base S/Y Fiji Siren here at the Volivoli Beach Resort.

Getting Around

The Kings Road
 between Rakiraki and Lautoka and Kings [turning into] Queens Road between Rakiraki and Suva is well serviced by public transport. As such, couriering parts and/or supplies from either direction is straightforward.

Ellington Wharf

Provisioning

You can easily arrange a round trip taxi journey to Rakiraki Town for provisioning. Better still, the resorts listed below are happy to do this for you! Within the town itself you will find a great local fruit and veggie market and a selection of supermarkets and hardware stores. While you wont find a chandlery here, items can easily be couriered from Lautoka, Nadi or Suva (see Directory).

Bunkering and water fills at Ellington Wharf

17°20.243 S | 178°13.135 E

Using your own 20 litre containers, or borrowing from the resort, you can use the Safari Lodge Mainland Base @ Ellington Wharf to refuel (Diesel / Pre-mix / Super) and also stock up on fresh water. A simple phone call to 948 8888 or 669 3333 or 628 3332 will enable you to make the necessary arrangements.

Accommodation & Facilities

Safari Island Lodge

Kitesurfing @ Safari Lodge

17’17”914 South | 178’13’361 East

Located at Nananu-i-ra, Safari Lodge is an adventure watersport specialist, here you can try or practice everything from Kitesurfing, Windsurfing, SUPing, Waterskiing and Wake boarding. You can have fun playing in this sheltered bay for as long as you like, taking lessons in your chosen water-sport, or renting the gear to hone your skills!

There is a PADI 5 Star Dive Centre – Safari Lodge Divers, located at the resort where you can fill your tanks or join them on a guided Dive Trip or even certify your crew and/or guests with a PADI Dive Course.

The Yacht lovin’ team at Safari Lodge will deliver bags of ice to your boat, provide provisioning, dispose of your rubbish responsibly and even act as your personal water taxi to the mainland or to the island Resort to make use of their restaurant and bar (which by the way, is open ‘til midnight!). Start a Tab and enjoy the laid back atmosphere! Land transfers to and from Rakiraki Town for provisioning or Nadi International Airport for crew/guest pick ups are also available via Safari Lodge vans based at Ellington Wharf. Your guests will be met here by the Resort boat and delivered to your vessel.

Easy access anchorages:
 17’18”723 South | 178’13”750 East    and      17’18”575 South | 178’13”639 East

T: 628 3332 | 948 8888
E: warren@safarilodge.com.fj

Wananavu

17°19’4.23 South | 178°12’14.63 East

Whether you anchor off the resort in calmer weather or around the corner for shelter, a simple courtesy call to the resort and you are welcome to make use of the many onsite luxuries. The resort runs a well stocked Bar, and offers a delicious all day menu. If you are feeling active, you can book a tennis court, explore the coastline by kayak, or jump in the fresh water pool. If the resort is not too busy – they will even launder your clothes and linen! The resort has pure desalinated water that you are welcome to fill from in exchange of a small fee.

Dive Wananavu has one of the only Nitrox Compressors in Fiji, you can choose to dive with the experienced team, or simply fill your tanks ready to head into the Vatu-i-Ra Channel to explore the world-class reefs.

With a secure and enclosed jetty at the foreshore to leave your skiff, the Wananavu team will organize return transport to Rakiraki town for provisioning. They will also arrange cultural and sightseeing tours in the area should you wish to explore the mainland.

T: 669 4433 | F: 669 4499 E: stay@wananavu.com

Volivoli Beach Resort

Fiji Siren @ Volivoli

17°18’41.73 South | 178°10’24.04 East

A good sandy anchorage just off the resort holds in 30 knot winds. A courtesy call is all it takes to be welcomed ashore for access to this family run resort’s bar, restaurant and swimming pool, complete with swim-up bar. Plenty of beer, kava and great music are guaranteed every night in the Beach Bar! There’s also a large screen T.V. for those that want to keep up with rugby events. The luxury villas that overlook the bay make for a great launching point for your friends, crew or charters.

Resort staff will happily arrange taxi’s to Rakiraki Town for provisioning for you and Soni the barman can organize great village visits around the area.

Ra Divers operate from the beach and if you call to make arrangements with the main office, tank fills are available for FJ$20.

T: 669 4511 | M: 999 2113

Anchorages in the area

Sheltered Anchorages of Rakiraki

There are several good anchorages within the area.

On the south easterly side of Nananu-i-Ra or; in stronger winds, an anchorage tucked in behind Nananu-i-Cake rests at:
17°18.793 South | 178°13.433 East

Well protected from the South Easterly Trades, and holding well in 30knots is the Volivoli anchorage located at:
17°18.933 South | 178°10.119 East

Some of the nicest beaches in Fiji are located on the back of Nananu-i-Ra Island. There is good anchorage with access to unspoiled private beaches available on the west end of Nananu-i-Ra at:    17°16.758 South | 178°11.677 East

* All GPS coordinates given = Chart Datum WGS84 using iSailor

Of course we have to include a disclaimer here, and remind you that everything contained within this Guide is merely a suggestion. Please use this information only as an aid to navigation.

In the heart of the Lomaiviti Group, lies the island of Makogai; not only abundant with biodiversity and beauty, but brimming with South Pacific history. From Leprosy Hospital, 1911-1969 to Government Mariculture Centre 2014.

Dalice Bay, Makogai
Photo: Capt. Johnathon Smith

Throughout Fiji there are many myths and legends associated with so called ‘Leprosy stones’. These are believed to be the gravestones of Fijians who had died of the disease predating the arrival of Europeans and Asians.

Over many years, there was a gradual increasing awareness of the disease, and its contagious nature. Eventually under British rule the Leper Ordinance Act of 1899 was passed to prohibit sufferers from handling food, medicines and tobacco, using public transport, bathing in communal pools and lodging in public houses.

The Makogai Leprosy Hospital was officially opened on the 29th November 1911 when the first twenty patients arrived at the island onboard the Government ketch ‘Ramadi’. Soon patients were arriving from all over the Pacific; countries such as the Solomons, the then named Gilbert and Ellice Islands, Cook Islands, Samoa, and Tonga. Separate villages for ethnic groups were constructed to ‘promote peace and order’ and women were kept separate from the men. In total, over 4000 patients landed on the island.

Arrival Jetty at Makogai

Initially, the only treatment offered was Chaulmoogra Oil, which was used to dress wounds and given as an intra-dermal injection. While never a cure, it appeared to reduce symptoms. The island was divided in two to prevent the spread of the disease between patients and workers. Even the shoes worn at the patient’s end of the Island were banned at the ‘clean end’ where the doctors and non-infected workers lived.

Finally, in 1948 – almost 40 years after the first patients were admitted, Dapsone, a sulpha drug and a cure against the bacterial cause of leprosy (or Hansen’s Disease, named after the Norwegian physician who identified the causal bacteria Mycobacterium leprae in 1873) was discovered.

During its 58 years as a leprosarium, approximately 2,500 patients were effectively treated and sent back home to their friends and families. Around 500 were repatriated back to their homeland and the remaining 1,241 died due to the direct effects and complications of leprosy. The deaths included a Fijian Sister, Maria Filomena, who had lived on the island for over 30 years as both a worker and patient having contracted the disease. You can visit her grave along with hundreds of others – in the large cemetery that overlooks Dalice Bay.

Cemetery at Makogai

In 1969, the last patients with Leprosy left Makogai for Fiji’s purpose built Hospital in Suva. With their departure, the days of the Makogai Leprosy Hospital came to an end.

Makogai Today

Today, the island has a very DHARMA Initiative (from the popular and sometimes confusing TV series, ‘LOST’) feel to it!

Some of the old structures remain as if the Leprosarium was still in operation, while others are mere shells hidden under vines and other foliage. Only the steps of the old hospital show where the central building once stood. The concrete foundations are still intact for 4 dorm blocks believed to have been the Chinese or Indian quarters – these are within walking distance from the hospital site. At the ‘clean’ end of the island, an approximately 20 minutes walk along the coastline, you can wander among the old staff quarters. Today, the houses are home to government Fisheries officers and their families.

Old Theatre

It is in this area that you can find what is left of the coconut soap factory, massive engine house, island store and even a bakery. The local school is located here and children play happily under the shade of the mango trees. Ask them to show you some of the old pottery and artefacts they have uncovered over the years. A walk back to where you began, this time taking a detour through the forest, will see you pass the old post office and wireless telephone centre.

Leprosy Hospital Steps

A snorkel just off the old arrival jetty in Dalice Bay uncovers even more historical artifacts; hospital beds lay strewn along the seabed under newly formed coral reefs. A closer look at these beds will also provide you with a clue as to what today’s inhabitants of the island are up to…

Mariculture at Makogai

In 2011, Makogai officially became a Mariculture Centre. One of the main projects that the team of fisheries officers based here work on, is culturing giant clams (Tridacna). Once in abundance on Fiji’s reefs, many species have been overharvested and current levels are low. The adductor muscle is considered a delicacy and an aphrodisiac in China, which coupled with the harvesting of clams for food, shells and the aquarium trade – it is unsurprising that they have found themselves on the IUCN’s vulnerable list. In the 1980s an Australian-funded project began culturing them at Makogai – and thousands have since been transplanted to various parts of Fiji.

Mariculture at Makogai

The old hospital beds lined up in the shallows of Dalice Bay are used to protect juvenile clams once they have been transplanted from the onshore breeding facility. Once deemed large enough to fend for themselves, they are available for repopulating other reef areas around Fiji.

The important role that the vasua (clams) play on the coral reef is often overlooked. A single giant clam can filter hundreds of litres of water in a day. As filter feeders, this keystone species offers a great line of defence against an outbreak of pesky crown of thorns starfish by filtering out thousands of their microscopic spawn. Remember: while we are busy trying to help replenish our reefs supplies, the Fisheries Act Cap 58 states that no person shall be in possession of, sell or export giant clam flesh, or shells.

Giant Clam Shell

For more information or to arrange a tour of the old Leprosarium, you can call or email the Principal Fisheries Officer for the Eastern Division on (679) 336 1122 or wsaladrau@hotmail.com ahead of time who will make arrangements with staff on the island to prepare for your arrival. You will of course need to present your sevusevu to the people of the island before setting off on your exploration.

Robinson Crusoe Island Club is located on a small island near the passage into Likuri Harbour north of Natadola Beach on Vita Levu.

With a history dating back 3,500 years to when the first Polynesians landed their huge outrigger canoes on our shores.

• Entrance minimum depth is 2m.
• Radio in on VF Channel 10 and we can escort you in to our safe heavy weather anchorage.
• Anchorage minimum depth is 2m–6m.

The island was originally known as Likuri Island and was a restricted and sacred place for traditional ceremonies and chiefly gatherings. As a historic settlement site of the Lapita people, today the island is home to an intimate eco-friendly resort, which is the result of a successful partnership between the Australian owners and Fijian landowners.

The arrangement is based on the traditional Fijian system of agreement, and allows visitation and accommodation for tourists looking for a more authentic and cultural experience.

The island is located in the estuary of the Tuva River, and is surrounded by coral reefs on the exposed seaside. Snorkelling and scuba diving here is an awesome experience.

On the landside exposure, you will find some endangered mangrove forests, and at the islands extremities you will find soft sand bars and a lagoon that bears into the Pacific Ocean.

Robinson Crusoe Island is a place where you can do everything or nothing. Packed with cultural and educational activities for the whole family to enjoy. For those wanting rest and relaxation, the island has a beautiful beachfront with hammocks and swinging chairs that you can laze in by the lagoon.

Fresh local produce and fish, fine cuts of meat and traditional lovo feasts will delight your taste buds in open air dining peering across the ocean. The beachfront bars are a great place to cool off and have a tropical cocktail or cold beer.

There is Happy Hour every night at the Wreck Bar and a cultural show with meal specials from FJ$25. Be enthralled by the famous South Pacific Island Dance Spectacular!

You will be captivated by the Polynesian, Micronesian, Melanesian dances with some of Fiji’s best knife and fire performers. We can also arrange tours and village visits.

Additional activities are available at extra cost including massages, manicures & pedicures, sport & game fishing, diving and water sports. A world championship golf course is just 5 minutes from our Jetty. Some provisioning is available. Nadi Town connections are daily. Club membership & discounts are also available.

Nestled in the shadow of Ovalau and just 12 nautical miles from Bau Landing, lies a majestic coral island formed thousands of years ago, on a reef fringing the Motoriki channel with waters diversely rich in marine life.

Leleuvia lies in the Lomaiviti Group that is the heart of Fiji where the Nation came into being. Historic Ovalau was home to Fiji’s earliest European Settlement in the town of Levuka; the country’s first capital.

The Moturiki Passage that takes you into Leleuvia is a whopping 2.5 kilometers across, and while unmarked it is easily visible during the day.

Leleuvia Island Resort began a comprehensive upgrade program in April 2012 to repair and rebuild damage by recent cyclones. Sixteen new bure’s have been built in addition to a central facility boasting an amazing thatched roof structure that is over 100 metres long! It houses a new kitchen, bar, restaurant and boutique.

With its golden sand beaches, you could be forgiven for thinking you were in the Yasawa’s and yet Leleuvia is unique in the way that only Leleuvia can be. It sits just outside the Nausori-Suva rain belt and therefore enjoys an abundance of sunshine.

The surrounding reefs are fed from major ocean currents and upwelling from deep sea passages with strong currents that calm the inside reefs. This forms the perfect habitat for large schooling fish like tuna, barracuda, trevally, snapper, black tip reef sharks, hammerheads, manta rays and turtles as well as whales and dolphins.

Photo: Amit Itai

Hawksbill turtles nest on Leleuvia and neighbouring Caqalai island from November to February each year. Leleuvia works closely with the Fisheries Department to protect this threatened species from extinction.

From mid August each year, humpback whales pass close to Leleuvia heading along the fringing reef of Ovalau as they travel North to breed and calve after feeding in Antarctica from November to April. There are regular sightings of spinner dolphins with occasional sightings of minke whales and sperm whales .

In August the island hosted 45 Hobie Cat sailors and officials for the 2012 Fiji Hobie Challenge.

The event was last held at Leleuvia in 2008 and many of the returning sailors were amazed at the transformation of the resort.

Earlier in July, Leleuvia played host to the Te Mana O Te Moana fleet of seven voyaging canoes  and put on a huge feast for over 150 voyagers. Levuka welcomed the voyagers’ to Fiji in style with a celebration fit for royalty with the chief guest being Fiji’s First Lady, Adi Koila Nailatikau.

Leleuvia has a close association with Levuka and regularly takes guests to the historic town on day trips and shopping excursions.

Expatriate couple Bart and Jitske were engaged on Leleuvia in 2011 and returned to the island four times in 2012.

Resort Director, Dovi Kanaimawi says “we rely heavily on return business so it is important Leleuvia maintains it’s natural untouched image and does not become overdeveloped like other resorts that have had to raise their tariffs to keep up with expansion”.

That is why a large part of the focus on Leleuvia’s upgrade has been on guest services.

The Dive Shop has been restored to its former glory  with entirely new equipment managed by one of Fiji’s most experienced PADI Master Scuba Diver Trainer’s, Jone Uluiviti. Jone has family ties with the chiefly island of Bau and neighbouring islands of Motoriki and Nairai so he knows the area well.

“With our new 28 foot boat we can access dive sites throughout most of Lomaiviti which gives us over 50 dive site options”, says Jone.

Most of the islands of Lomaiviti are the peaks of deep sea volcano’s rising from 1000 to 3000 meters and remain relatively untouched in terms of tourism. The area is the new frontier for divers visiting Fiji for year round, warm, tropical coral reef diving. If you are visiting for the first time or are a regular visitor to Fiji, Leleuvia and the surrounding islands of Lomaiviti are a refreshing change from the regular tourism hot spots in the west of the Fiji group.

The daily bar ‘Happy Hour’ is from 5 to 7pm with the island specialty being Bounty Rum and Coconut. There is plenty of fresh water if you need a top up and Leleuvia offers free moorings right off the beach.

To book: Phone: +679 8384 365 or email: col…@leleuvia.com.

Text by Colin Philp

Photography by Tor Johnson

Made famous by Tom Hanks and the movie ‘Cast Away’, Monuriki Island presents a fine example of an untouched tropical island.

Before setting foot on this spectacular island or anchoring off its astoundingly white sandy beaches you are required to visit the village of Yanuya and present your sevusevu to the traditional landowners.

Iguana by Stacy Jupiter

After the sevusevu, you will be advised if it is an appropriate time to visit the island, and we ask that you respect the chief’s decision. If approved, you will receive a brief on the island’s biosecurity and its importance.

The island is significant for a number of reasons. Firstly because one of the most endangered vegetation types: Tropical Dry Forest Vegetation occurs on the island.

Subsequently the National Trust of Fiji and BirdLife Fiji launched a goat removal and rat eradication program. These introduced species are a threat to the native wildlife of the island, and their removal allows seedlings to grow and the rare Tropical Dry Forest to flourish once again.

There is also a genetically unique population of the Fijian Crested Iguana that call the island home. Wedge-tail Shearwaters (Puffinus pacificus) are native sea birds that return to the island to breed between the months of October and April. Monuriki has among the largest and most important breeding colonies in the South Pacific region. Turtles also nest on Monuriki Island, so please do take care when walking along the sandy beaches, and if you spot any nesting turtles or hatchlings, be sure to record your sighting and submit this important information.

The landowners have traditionally established Monuriki Island as a reserve for its significant wildlife and the surrounding marine environment.

Before you land on Monuriki, check everything you will take ashore for stowaway seeds, lizards, rodents and ants. Please help us to protect our islands and obey signs and any information provided to you by the people of Yanuya Village. Restrict your movements to the beach you land on.

For further information, or to report concerns, please phone:
Yanuya Village 714 3979
National Trust of Fiji 330 1807
Birdlife International 331 3492

Kula Eco Park

Kula Eco Park

If you are interested in learning more about the Crested and Banded Iguana, a small number of animals have been taken into captivity by the National Trust’s partner organization the ‘Kula Eco Park’ (just outside Sigakoka) as part of the captive breeding program.

The program aims to re-populate both Yadua Taba and Monuriki islands and other locations the iguanas inhabit, with their respective species by giving Mother Nature a helping hand.

Kula Eco Park: PO Box 823, Sigatoka, Fiji Islands

Tel: (679) 6500 505 | Fax: (679) 6520 202

Email: kula…@connect.com.fj

Savusavu is an official port of entry into Fiji. This yacht focused town nestled along the coastline of Southern Vanua Levu, is home to not one, but two marinas.

The town is usually the first port of call for people sailing from Tonga and Samoa.

Savusavu by Tor Johnson

Because Savusavu town provides most things a cruising yacht needs, from fuel, water and groceries, to banking, general hardware and electrical, Savusavu’s harbor is bustling with yachts coming and going.

Many use Savusavu as a base for cruising the less explored Northern islands of Fiji and quite often set up camp in the protected Nakama Creek for the duration of our cyclone season.

The town is famous for its hot springs (just ask a local to point them out), and at low tide you can see the steam from numerous small outlets all along the foreshore. It is not uncommon to find pots of food being cooked over the bubbling waters, so if you happen run out of gas onboard, you know where you can boil your eggs!

As an interesting side note – this geothermal energy is resource that could generate enough electricity to power the entire island of Vanua Levu!

Both the Copra Shed Marina and Waitui Marina welcome overseas yachts and provide moorings, and a gathering place for the yachtsmen.

Once you have arrived in Savusavu, moored up and gotten yourself settled into the swing of things, be sure to take a look at the local Savusavu website maintained by the Savusavu Tourism Association.